Spray Wall, in Sweden also known as “Kaosvägg” or “Sprayvägg”, is a wall full of grips in different shapes that lack specific colors or complete bouldering problems. You therefore create your own problems where you can practice different movement combinations and is a valuable training tool.
Spray walls are difficult to climb and, like all indoor climbing, were created as a training tool for outdoor climbing.
Beginner climbers usually do not benefit much from the advantages that the spray wall brings, it is mainly recommended for intermediate to advanced climbers.
Many professional climbers consider the spray wall to be one of the most valuable tools in bouldering and it is regularly used by the Swedish National Team.
You can design problems yourself according to your weaknesses to train them, while your creativity increases when you create your own combinations.
A spray wall is perfect for training and developing several different bouldering skills. Here are the main ones:
Spray walls are especially optimal for your strength training, where you can create movements that are right at or maybe even above your maximum ability. Instead of waiting for a problem to be built with your desired movement patterns, the spray wall gives you endless opportunities to create your own patterns and challenges.
Another advantage of the spray wall is the endless combination of grips. Climbers often train endurance by stringing together anywhere from 10 to 50 pulls on a spray wall. The most common endurance exercise on a spray wall is called “Up-Down-Up”. It works exactly as it sounds: you climb up to the top, back down again and then back to the top again – with no rest in between. To advance further, you can perform this exercise without repeating the same move twice. This makes training more effective because you cannot rely on muscle memory but must remember the movements. Another exercise to develop your bouldering skills is to climb in circles.
This means a climber’s ability to be able to make several powerful movements in succession. A climber practicing power endurance performs several difficult moves in a row, performing at their maximum limit. The endless combination of holds on a spray wall gives the climber the ability to create their own problems and connect several moves of a specific difficulty level. Spray walls are also often found on overhanging parts of the wall, which further challenges by forcing the climber to “cut feet” and perform more powerful movements.
Additional benefit of the spray wall and its endless combination of holds is the ability to try problems that address a climber’s specific weakness. For example, if a climber needs to develop their coordination, it is easy to create a difficult problem that caters for the weakness.
Finally, many climbers practice on a spray wall because it requires creative thinking in the problem creation Much of the fun of a spray wall comes from creating your own combinations of holds and seeing if these can be completed.